Janet’s Law requires public and nonpublic schools k-12 to have automated external defibrillators or AED onsite and establish emergency action plans for responding to sudden cardiac arrest (SCA) event.
"A school district or nonpublic school shall be deemed to be in compliance with this requirement if a State-certified emergency services provider or other certified first responder is on site at the event or practice”
This means a coach, athletic trainer, or any other licensed staff member.
An AED must be placed onsite in an unlocked location with an appropriate sign to identify it. It should be accessible during the school day and any other time such as an athletic event, including when practices is taking place. The defibrillator needs to be “within reasonable proximity of the school grounds and athletic field, as applicable.
We believe that reasonable proximity can be defined as any AED that can be retrieved and used within 90 seconds. For every minute that passes the chance of survival decreases 10 percent. Assuming the average person runs 5 miles per hour, in a lifesaving situation, an AED would need to be placed in a known position approximately 325 feet away from the epicenter of the SCA event to make sure the person is shocked in 90 seconds. The defibrillators need to be tested and maintained according to the manufacturer’s operational guidelines. If an AED is used, the proper reports must be made.
Janet’s Law about onsite AED defibrillators on school grounds also mandates that schools “shall establish and implement an emergency action plan (EAP) for responding to a sudden cardiac event including, but not limited to, an event in which the use of an automated external defibrillator may be necessary.
Your school’s emergency action plan (EAP) must contain these items:
As with any new purchase of a product with this level of involvement, a considerable amount of education is needed to make a smart decision. Please feel free to call us at 1-888-242-4259 or visit our website at www.FirstAid.org for more information.
The first diagnosis of Lyme Disease was made in a resident of Lyme, Connecticut in 1975. Over the decades, the seriousness of this debilitating tick-borne disease has made many people weary of wandering outdoors during seasons when ticks are active. If you live in the Northeast or upper Midwest states, there’s a good chance you know someone who has had a Lyme Disease diagnosis. A decade after being diagnosed in people, Lyme Disease was first recognized as a condition that also affects dogs.
What exactly is Lyme Disease?
Lyme Disease is an infectious disease that is caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi, which is found in several varieties of ticks, but is mostly associated with the common deer tick. The disease is transmitted when a tick carrying the bacteria bites a dog—or human—and feasts on the host’s blood. It should be noted that not all deer ticks carry the disease, and not all bites from infected deer ticks successfully transmit the disease. For the bacteria to be passed into a dog, the tick must have been attached to the dog for about 48 hours. So if a tick is removed from a dog shortly after he is bitten, there’s a good chance the dog will not contract the disease. However, deer ticks are extremely tiny and are difficult to see, especially when covered by a dog’s fur. Your vet is trained to spot and remove ticks. If you happen to notice a tick on your dog and want to attempt to remove it, use small tweezers and carefully grasp the tick where it is making contact with the dog’s skin. Then gently lift the tick away. If you suspect that it’s a deer tick, take your dog—and the tick—to the vet for examination.
What are the symptoms?
Lyme Disease isn’t easy to diagnose, especially in senior dogs, because the initial symptoms can be mistaken for other conditions, such as arthritis. Lyme Disease symptoms include limping—which can shift from one leg to another—swelling of lymph nodes, lethargy, loss of appetite, and fever. Initially, the affected dog may simply experience mild joint and muscle discomfort in his limb(s). However, the pain can become severe over time, and multiple joints can be involved Even with treatment, Lyme Disease can cause permanent joint damage. There have also been reports of severe progressive kidney disease linked to Lyme Disease.
Is there treatment for Lyme Disease?
Lyme Disease is generally treated with antibiotics. In many cases, affected dogs respond well to those meds. However, if treatment is halted too soon, the dog may get a relapse. Even in dogs that show full recovery, the bacteria that causes Lyme Disease may still be present in their bodies, even though the dog no longer displays the symptoms of the disease. Senior dogs with severe cases of arthritis—in addition to Lyme Disease—and those dogs that are severely affected may also be treated with pain relievers.
How can Lyme Disease be prevented?
Since Lyme Disease is serious and can be debilitating, dog owners want to take measures to prevent their pets from contracting the disease. Here are a few things you can do to help minimize your dog’s chance of getting Lyme Disease.
Avoid areas that are likely to be tick infested. During the seasons when ticks are active, try to avoid taking your dog into heavily wooded areas or other places where large deer populations live.
Spray your immediate home/lawn area with an appropriate insecticide. If you decide to use an anti-tick spray, make sure it’s safe for dogs.
Vaccinate your dog. If you live in a high-risk region, ask your vet about the latest generation of Lyme Disease vaccinations. He may recommend one that he deems effective.
Use a topical anti-tick insecticide. There are currently several brands of topical insecticides on the market. They generally help in two ways:
(1) By repelling ticks, and (2) By killing ticks that manage to attach themselves to dogs. Ask your vet about the brands he recommends. Please note that most flea and tick collars are not effective against the ticks that cause Lyme Disease. Only collars with amitraz have been shown to kill the ticks that spread this disease.
If you live in-or your dog has visited-a Lyme Disease hot spot and suspect that he is suffering from this condition, do not hesitate to take him to the veterinarian for an examination.
Winter weather can be harsh on your dog's skin, especially if he's a senior. As dogs age, their oil-secreting glands slow down, making them prone to dry skin. The cold winter air and dry indoor heat only aggravate the condition, causing itching and flaking that may lead to constant scratching, biting or licking.
To help your pet survive the winter with a healthy skin and coat, follow these suggestions:
Use a room humidifier. The air in most houses becomes dry during the colder months, which depletes moisture from your dog's skin and fur. A humidifier adds needed moisture to the air.
Keep baths to a minimum. Bathing removes essential oils from the skin and can increase the chance of developing flaky skin. When you bathe your senior dog, use a moisturizing shampoo from the pet store. Human soaps and shampoos are formulated for human skin pH and may cause dry, irritated, itchy skin. Dry him with thick towels before taking him outdoors. A blow drier at this age can be harsh on dry skin. Consult with your vet about the recommended number of baths per month for your dog.
Brush your dog regularly. Brushing improves skin, coat and circulation. Plus, clean fur lofts and holds warmth in much the same way that layering clothes does.
Never shave your dog down to the skin. It's fine to give your dog a trim, but for added warmth, be sure to leave his coat a little longer in the winter.
Give your dog fatty-acid supplements. Older dogs may no longer produce enough of the fatty acids needed to keep their skin and coat healthy. Start the supplements several weeks before cold weather sets in to provide the cells of the skin with necessary nutrients.
Increase his food if he's very active. If your dog engages in a lot of outdoor activities, you may need to feed him more of his regular food to provide added energy and keep his coat thick and healthy.
Buy him a coat. Senior dogs need extra protection from winter weather. Unless your dog has his own thick fur, put a warm sweater or coat and booties on your dog when he goes out on very cold days.
Dry winter skin is a problem for many dogs but it doesn't have to be. With a little help from you, your pooch can have a healthy coat and a scratch-free winter
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